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(١) سجل السفينة

For historical background on the metrics of weather applied by observers at sea, I looked first to Scott Huler’s Defining the Wind: The Beaufort Scale, and How a 19th-Century Admiral Turned Science into Poetry (New York: Three Rivers Press, 2004). Verification of basic scientific parameters (in this and subsequent chapters) came primarily from Donald Ahrens and Robert Henson’s Meteorology Today: An Introduction to Weather, Climate, and the Environment, 12th edition (Boston: Cengage, 2019) and Reeds Maritime Meteorology, 4th edition, by Maurice Cornish and Elaine Ives (London: Bloomsbury, 2019). The details of weather’s moving parts—waves, fronts, and mesoscale features like the sting jet that overtook Captain Jay Amster on the Robert C. Seamans in 2019—were largely resolved in the twentieth century and are often best explored in journal accounts from the researchers themselves (see Selected Articles). The image of grain ships thundering east across the Southern Ocean is a universal one in maritime mythology, but for a tale of actual events I have found few more compelling than Basil Lubbock’s The Last of the Windjammers, volume 1 (Glasgow: Brown, Son, and Ferguson, 1927), written in a time when square rig sailors were still a regular part of the working waterfront populace.

(٢) المبادئ الأولى

Technical discussions in this chapter are supported by information from the texts named in Chapter One, along with material from W. L. Ferrel’s The Motions of Fluids and Solids Relative to the Earth’s Surface (New York: Ivison, Phinney, 1860)—a mixed volume of dense mathematics and predicted atmospheric behavior, all miraculously derived before the election of Abraham Lincoln.
It is hard to set sail in the Pacific without considering the trails left—for better or worse—by Captain James Cook and his many followers. As re-markable as Cook’s navigational feats were, they may have been equaled by his skills as a diarist, and anyone wanting a real-time narrative need only procure a copy of his recounting, The Journals of Captain Cook. On my bookshelf is the 1999 Penguin paperback edition, edited by Philip Edwards. My own perspectives as a foreign mariner in today’s Pacific were also influenced by several readings of Tony Horwitz’s Blue Latitudes: Boldly Going Where Captain Cook Has Gone Before (New York: Picador, 2002)—a nuanced and often humorous journey into the legacies of colonialism, for both colonists and the colonized.

(٣) غابة السُّحُب

In tandem with a review of clouds and their meteorology, my discussions of sudden wind events and their threat to sailing ships are much informed by the work of Captain Daniel Parrott in Tall Ships Down: The Last Voyages of the Pamir, Albatross, Marques, Pride of Baltimore, and Maria Asumpta (Camden, ME: International Marine, 2003). There are few prospects more frightening to a sailor than the thought of having your ship blown down and sunk, and I am grateful to those among my colleagues who have been willing to share their own difficult stories with the hope of fostering safer outcomes in the future. (See Selected Articles.)

(٤) الإعصار الأفعواني

This chapter owes much credit to Peter Moore’s The Weather Experiment: The Pioneers Who Sought to See the Future (London: Vintage, 2015), for information on the early conceptualization of cyclones among nineteenth-century mariners and scientists. The remarkable emergence of quantitative meteorology under the Norwegians is described in Robert Marc Friedman’s Appropriating the Weather: Vilhelm Bjerknes and the Construction of a Modern Meteorology (New York: Cornell University Press, 1989), and uniquely summarized in Jacob Bjerknes’s original monograph on wave cyclones from 1926 (see Selected Articles). For discussions of maneuvering a ship under threat from a tropical cyclone—and Captain Phil Sacks’s successful evasion of Hurricane Frances aboard the schooner Westward in 1992—I turned to Auxiliary Sail Vessel Operations for the Professional Sailor, 2nd edition, by Captain G. Andy Chase (Centreville, MD: Cornell Maritime Press, 2016). The inherent risks of crossing a hurricane track at sea are revisited by Captain Chase in his article “Lessons of the BOUNTY” (see Selected Articles).

(٥) قبة السماء الواسعة

My own education in the remarkable accomplishments of Pacific navigators is owed in no small part to Christina Thompson for her recent book, Sea People: The Puzzle of Polynesia (London: William Collins, 2019). Also valuable were Andrew Crowe’s Pathway of the Birds: The Voyaging Achievements of Māori and Their Polynesian Ancestors (Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2018) and Sam Low’s Hawaiki Rising: Hōkūle’a, Nainoa Thompson, and the Hawaiian Renaissance (Honolulu: Island Heritage Publishing, 2013). One of America’s present experts on wayfinding is in fact a particle physicist by trade, and I thank Dr. John Huth of Harvard University for both his book—The Lost Art of Finding Our Way (Cambridge, MA: Belknap Press of the Harvard University Press, 2013)—and his enthusiastic collaboration during my time with the SEA Education Association of Woods Hole. It was also during my SEA voyages that I had the good fortune to sail briefly with Captain Ka‘iulani Murphy and some of her fellow navigators at Hawai‘i’s Polynesian Voyaging Society, modern stewards of an ancient art.

(٦) السفينة الأم

For stories of early marine meteorology and its founding practitioners— Beaufort, FitzRoy, Redfield, and the like—I again credit Peter Moore’s The Weather Experiment. Discussions of modern forecasting were informed by Andrew Blum’s The Weather Machine (New York: Ecco, 2019) and a monograph by longtime National Weather Service scientist Dr. Harry R. (Bob) Glahn: The United States Weather Service: The First 100 Years (Rockville, MD: Pilot Imaging, 2012). A gripping image of the service’s formative years comes from Erik Larson’s Isaac’s Storm: A Man, a Time, and the Deadliest Hurricane in History (New York: Random House, 2000), while insights on forecasting during World War II were provided by John Ross in The Forecast for D-Day and the Weatherman Behind Ike’s Greatest Gamble (Guilford, CT: Lyons Press, 2014). In supplement to these books was a long list of articles from the Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society (BAMS), a trove of information for any researcher on this topic (see Selected Articles). Most of all, thanks are owed to Joe Sienkiewicz, a longtime friend and resource to all of us who travel under sail—slowly, sensitive to weather, and with precious cargo.

(٧) العودة من البحر

Perspective on my own Mediterranean sailings was expanded by readings of Alfred Crosby’s Ecological Imperialism: The Biological Expansion of Europe, 900–1900 (New York: Cambridge University Press, 1986,1993, 2004). Also, Nigel Cliff’s The Last Crusade: The Epic Voyages of Vasco da Gama (New York: Harper, 2011), Laurence Bergreen’s Over the Edge of the World: Magellan’s Terrifying Circumnavigation of the Globe (New York: HarperCollins, 2004), and Robert Fuson’s Juan Ponce de León and the Spanish Discovery of Puerto Rico and Florida (Blacksburg, VA: McDonald and Woodward, 2000). In present-day Spain I owe Nick Lloyd for offering me a greater grasp of Spanish history than a passing mariner might ever hope to have, and for his book, Forgotten Places: Barcelona and the Spanish Civil War (Nick Lloyd, 2015).

(٨) خروجٌ آمن إلى البحر

My discussions of the human element in marine casualties were supported by another book from Captain Dan Parrott, Bridge Resource Management for Small Ships (Camden, ME: International Marine, 2011). This illuminating set of case studies is informed by Captain Parrott’s many years of experience at sea and as a professor at Maine Maritime Academy. Also insightful was Malcolm Gladwell’s “The Ethnic Theory of Plane Crashes,” in Outliers: The Story of Success (New York: Little, Brown and Company, 2008). Official investigation reports for the Picton Castle, Bounty, and El Faro casualties are referenced in Selected Articles. Reading the stories of others who have gone to sea and met with misfortune is a humbling process. One can only accept this information in the way its authors intended—which is with the hope that the lessons learned may improve the safety of future voyages.

(٩) نهرٌ من الرياح

A full account of the mysterious disappearance (and rediscovery) of the airliner Star Dust is to be found in Star Dust Falling: The Story of the Plane That Vanished, by Jay Rayner (New York: Doubleday, 2002). For the emergence of the jet stream as a core principle in atmospheric science—and its modern role at the heart of forecasting and climate change—I again mined the abundant vein of scientific articles that exist on the topic, beginning with Carl-Gustaf Rossby’s original work at the University of Chicago. (See Selected Articles.) Special thanks to Dr. Jennifer Francis of Woods Hole’s Woodwell Climate Research Center, for her willingness to review early drafts of this chapter and improve my understanding of certain key points.

(١٠) ولائم بحرية من الماضي

For background on the underpinnings of El Niño, I referred to Edward S. Sarachik and Mark A. Cane, The El Niño-Southern Oscillation Phenomenon (New York: Cambridge University Press, 2010), as well as Sir Gilbert Walker’s original monograph, Correlation in Seasonal Variations of Weather, IX—A Further Study of World Weather (Calcutta: Government of India Press, 1924). Again, credit is owed to Andrew Crowe’s Pathway of the Birds for his thoughts on how interannual wind variations might have shaped the journeys of island voyagers. Thanks also to my many friends in the world of oceanography who built my understanding of ENSO in uncounted lunchtime lectures and long nights on deck spent watching gear deployments. Special appreciation to Professor Daniel Sandweiss at the University of Maine, for taking time to discuss the extensive work he has done in South America with others from the Climate Change Institute.

(١١) مثاقب الجليد

On the development of pilot charts, naval hydrography, and the long interplay between climatology and navigation, I looked to Chester Hearn’s Tracks in the Sea: Matthew Fontaine Maury and the Mapping of the Oceans (Camden, ME: International Marine, 2002), as well as Nathaniel Philbrick’s Sea of Glory: America’s Voyage of Discovery—The US Exploring Expedition (New York: Penguin, 2003). For an overall history of polar exploration, I tapped an old favorite, Pierre Berton’s The Arctic Grail: The Quest for the Northwest Passage and the North Pole, 1818-1909 (New York: Viking, 1988). Also valuable was Ken McGoogan’s Fatal Passage: The Story of John Rae, the Arctic Hero Time Forgot (New York: Carroll & Graf, 2001). For an account of the more recent (if also nearly forgotten) adventure of the SS Manhattan, I read Ross Coen’s Breaking Ice for Arctic Oil: The Epic Voyage of the SS Manhattan through the Northwest Passage (Fairbanks: University of Alaska Press, 2012). Background on ice cores and their foundational role in paleoclimatology came from Paul Mayewski and Frank White’s The Ice Chronicles: The Quest to Understand Global Climate Change (Hanover, NH: University Press of New England, 2002). Dr. Mayewski—who is director of the Climate Change Institute at the University of Maine—was of great help in modernizing my understanding of the field after my long-ago meeting with his GISP-2 research team in Greenland. Other important sources for this chapter included Brian Fagan’s The Little Ice Age: How Climate Made History (New York: Basic Books, 2000, 2019), and Bob Drury and Tom Clavin’s Halsey’s Typhoon: The True Story of a Fighting Admiral, an Epic Storm, and an Untold Rescue (New York: Grove, 2007)—each a landmark account of the recurrent crossings between weather and history. The quote from Percy Langston regarding sea level rise on Kiritimati is taken from the video documentary Between Sky and Ocean (https://youtu.be/aXrZ-k333aw), made by Wojciech Hupert in 2012, not long after my own visits to the island in the Robert C. Seamans. For a frightening and informative personal memoir of the nuclear tests at Kiritimati, I recommend J. Haggas’s Christmas Island: The Wrong Place at the Wrong Time (London: Minerva, 1997).
As a baseline resource for this chapter, I used Robert Henson’s The Thinking Person’s Guide to Climate Change (Boston: American Meteorological Society, 2014). Books can’t be written fast enough to track the changes currently at play in this field—particularly in the polar regions—and here I relied extensively on journal articles to keep pace with events. (See Selected Articles.)
The ultimate form of this chapter was shaped greatly by conversations with my old friend and shipmate Dr. Kevin Wood—scientist, craftsman, polar voyager, author, husband, and father. Sadly, Kevin passed away in February of 2022, just after this manuscript was finished. No doubt his substantial contributions to science will be carried forward by colleagues, but for many Kevin’s departure will leave a gap that cannot be filled. After some deliberation I have decided to leave him in these pages as he will be remembered: alive, in the present tense, filled with enthusiasm for the world’s interesting things and always ready to share new ideas.

(١٢) هونجا تونجا هونجا هاباي

Much of what is told here of Tonga and Samoa is taken from conversations I had while going through my days in these two distinct chambers of Polynesia’s heartland. Once, after a flight from Honolulu to Pago Pago (there are two per week), I was approached in baggage claim by the man who’d been seated next to me in coach. Did I have a ride? A place to stay? If not, I was welcome to spend the night with his family—hospitality offered at a level that was touching but not at all uncommon. The artists Regina and Su’a Fitiao have offered such a welcome to the entire SEA crew across an arc of multiple visits—turning American Samoa into a second home for many, just about as far as it’s possible to go from the mainland.
In approaching the dog’s breakfast that is weather in the southwest Pacific, one might begin with Bob McDavitt’s Mariners Met Pack: South West Pacific (Auckland: Captain Teach Press, 2007)—a fine book, which, rather like a road map of Boston, constitutes a mere introduction. To glean any real understanding, it is necessary to drive into the place and get lost—engaging in serial acts of self-rescue until some actual cognitive model begins to emerge.

(١٣) المهنة التي اخترتها

What literacy I possess in Kiwi weather owes much to the slim guides of Jim Hessel (Auckland: MetGen Meteorological Consulting, 1991) and the gracious welcome given to our ship’s staff on repeated visits at the Meteorological Service of New Zealand, in Wellington. Special thanks to Mark Schwarz, who always found the time to greet us on what must have been a long string of busy days. Thanks also to David Webster, Neal Osborne, Ross Bannister (who made sure our barometer was telling the truth), and Ian Attwood—the man who first admitted our band of hopeful gate-crashers on a morning too foul for sailing.

(١٤) فبراير ومارس شهرٌ واحد

No research was required here to know that there is no better part of voyaging than coming home.

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